Ski Quebec, Mont-Sainte-Anne
Mont-Sainte-Anne & Quebec City comprise a dynamic ski destination.
The combination of fine skiing and snowboarding, Nordic skiing, and history create a unique winter vacation destination at Quebec City and Mont-Sainte-Anne.
Small, pleasant surprises are always welcome when skiing and snowboarding.
Well, large, pleasant surprises, too.
And, pleasant surprises always seem to be found at Quebec's Mont-Sainte-Anne.
As our eastern Quebec ski road trip continues, we've moved westerly down the road (along the road?) to Mont-Sainte-Anne, a true destination resort that's enhanced by it's close proximity to Quebec City. Few ski facilities can claim the cultural depth that this combination can.
Quebec City, a world heritage site, is North America's only walled city and the placed where the British defeated the French to assume control of the country.
Mont-Sainte-Anne has been amusing skiers since the 1940s, although it was only designated officially as a ski resort in 1966.
Surprises
But, that doesn't account for the pleasant surprises.
The first such wonderment was revealed when, on my first visit here years back, I discovered that you could encounter vastly different weather on the mountain's two faces. Indeed, just yesterday, springtime was in full bloom on the southern face, while the north face maintained mid-winter conditions.
Want to ski soft, wet stuff? Stay on the southside. Want solidness underfoot? Go north, young man.
Another pleasant surprise was revealed on a subsequent visit: a run called "La Sidney Dawes," a genuinely intermediate tree trail. Get past the few bumps at the entrance, and then it's nothing but fun zipping through the trees.
And, speaking of fun zipping through the trees, a nifty little detour from the main novice trails lead you into the Enchanted Forest. A beginners' run, it was conceived, I was told, to provide a glades experience for children. It really is enchanting. And you don't need to be a kid to be delighted by rollicking your way over little bumps, around widelay spaced trees and through whoop-di-doo single tracks.
You do need to be skilled, however, to enjoy what came as my next surprise. The Black Forest. Although it may sound sinister, this is a collection of advanced—and very advanced—tree runs hidden on the southside's western flank.
A person can strain his legs in there. But, you're truly skiing the mountain when you're in there (not a nicely groomed highway), and the sense of accomplishment can't be discounted.
The surprises have continued at each visit, including just yesterday when not only was it a different season on different sides of the hill, but we discovered that parasailing can be done from the top of the mountain.
Nah, we didn't do that. We just never knew you could.
History
Quebec City is but a 20-minute drive away, and a visit there is an absolute must. Indeed, most of the city's major hotels offer ski-and-stay packages, so snowsliders can get the best of both worlds.
No matter if you lodge at the mountain—where the Chateau Mont-Sainte-Anne certainly provides excellent digs and all the creature comforts like ski-in/out access—or in the city, an exploration of town is a must.
Here, just outside the old city walls, is the Plains of Abraham, the battle site of the country's great turning point. Inside the walls, narrow, European-like streets wander quirkily, filled with history, shops, ice rinks, museums, churches, outdoor art and more fine dining than you could possibly consume.
Below the wall, along the river, the Petite Champlain neighborhood is the original city itself. No need to be a history buff or shopaholic to appreciate the scene. Just bask in it.
And try the three rides:
- a ferry ride across the St. Lawrence River and back, particularly at dusk when the old city lights are beginning to twinkle
- a quick ascent from below the wall to the upper city on the funicular
- a mad sliding experience atop the wall on the toboggan run adjacent to the Chateau Frontenac, the city's most visible and best-known hotel
All the Wintersport Options
Mont-Sainte-Anne, like any full-bore ski resort these days, presents the full menu of winter recreation opportunities.
The cross country skiing is superb, and set just a few paces from the main based area.
A small ice skating rink is found outside the Chateau Mont-Sainte-Anne.
Dogsledding? Mais oui! Right on site.
Snowshoeing, too, of course.
All of Quebec is famous for its snowmobiling. This resort is no exception.
And, there's even a small ski museum in the base area.
But, in the end, it's the downhill sliding that keeps bringing me back here. The fact that you can escape the crowds by staying on western side of the south face, where the runs are all steep and the Black Forest lurks; or that you can change climates by shifting faces; or that you can get huge air in the whoppingly large TELUS terrain park; or that kids programs are fine.
It all adds up to a worthy ski vacation.
Perhaps, given Quebec City's proximity and the on-hill surprises, even an historic one.
