Skiing the Vallee Blanche
A Backcountry Ski Adventure in Chamonix at the Foot of Mont Blanc
Mar 9, 2009
Usually accomplished in a day, accompanied by a guide, skiing the Vallée Blanche was made possible by a mad wager taken in the 1950’s by the Italian engineer, Dino Lora Totino, Count of Cervinia. He took on the challenge to connect in two sections Chamonix at 1000 meters, to the precipitous 3842 meter summit pinnacle of the Aiguille du Midi (the needle of the south). This was well before the dashing ease of helicopters.
The Vallée Blanche starts on the exposed ridge line which leads out at a boot-width for 100 meters from the Aiguille du Midi cable car station. An alarming drop-off to the left over the vertiginous north face is protected by a rope railing before the route turns gently south and into the heart of the Mont Blanc Massif. There’s a flat spot to click into bindings, adjust goggles and regain one's equilibrium then whoosh . . . relax and enjoy the ride.
Vallee Blanche
There are no groomed runs, marked trails or ski patrol, this is an exclusively off-piste, high mountain journey. Initially, the glacier leads toward Italy. However, the classic route takes a sweeping left turn around the Gros Rognan and down the Glacier de Géant. This giant glacier features at its crescendo the Géant icefall - a colossal serac junkyard strewn with white and blue checkered debris. It is easily by-passed on skis.
About mid-way down, perched high on a sunny south facing ridge is ski in access to some welcome refreshment. The Refuge de Requin offers a small selection of local Savoyard fare and protection from the elements.
Mer de Glace
Soon after lunch, begins the home strait of the Vallée Blanche, also known as La Mer de Glace (the sea of ice). From its source on the Plateau du Géant to its tongue the Mer de Glace stretches over more than 11 kilometers with a 3000 meter change in altitude. It’s the largest glacier in France.
In a good snow year, a short hike from the glacial tongue of the Mer de Glace leads to a buvet (kiosk) and the ‘James Bond’ trail as it is known, which wheedles and traverses through pine and larch forest all the way to Chamonix, ending on the beginner slopes of Les Planards.
Get the Most Out of Skiing the Vallee Blanche
- When to go. Feb-April are the months recommended for the most reliable conditions. Good visibility is required on the day.
- Skiing ability . The run is suited to confident intermediate (blue run) skiers with a moderate fitness level. All snow conditions are possible from deep powder to icy moguls. The classic itinerary is considered to be intermediate.
- Where to book. Join a guided group at a bureau or hire a guide privately. The guide will advise on particulars such as lift tickets and meeting point.
- What to wear. Expect temperatures ranging from well below zero to t-shirt weather. Multiple thin layers, culminating in a water / wind proof outer layer, make it easy to regulate body temperature. Warm gloves, a woolly beanie and dark-lensed goggles or sunglasses are a must. Don't forget sunscreen and camera.
- What to take. A small backpack is handy for storing spare clothing. Take a water bottle (not a camel pack since they can freeze) and some snacks. The guide will provide an avalanche beacon and a harness.
Après Ski
Most people reward themselves at the end of the day with a beer or a café au lait at Des Deux Gares Café by the Montenvers train station in Chamonix. Try a Panaché Monaco (a fancy name for a shandy with a dash of Grenadine). Though drinking too many of those, skiers have been known to wind up in the bars till 2am with their ski boots still on.
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